North Vietnam - SaPa - Day 4

H'Mong ethnic woman - resting at a pit-stop.

The constant locomotion of the train soothed my mind and body to sleep, like a newborn in a car-seat. Unfortunately for Peter having insomnia, did not get any sleep on the train Trans-Sapa. Lucky for me, Peter nudged me awake at 4:54am so I didn’t miss the green landscape as the train was nearing Lao Cai. The young Vietnamese man was also wide awake, kicking back on the bunk bed below, listening to Vietnamese music next to his sleeping beauty.

Lao Cai is the main and last stop for Vietnam’s railway for northwest Vietnam. It made logical sense for Lao Cai to be the last train-stop as it is right by the border to China. The couple in our cabin were crossing the border to do adventurous hikes on Chinese mountains. They were young and fit and looked like seasonal hikers.

Outside Lao Cai Train Station.

It was early pulling up to Lao Cai station, the overcast grey clouds and mist did not thrill me. Walking into the station house, there were myriad of drivers and tour assistants standing-by with name boards of their customers’ names. I could not find ours, so we kept walking towards the front entrance. Just outside the front doors were even more driver’s and independent driver’s trying to pick-up stray travellers going somewhere at their own beat and pace. Eventually, I found our name board and followed the young assistant to the bus. To our surprise, 2 northern European couples we fleetingly met sitting and sipping egg coffee at Café Giang yesterday, are now doing the same tour as us. A sense of familiarity gave me assurance that we chose the right tour.

The bus journey was over an hour long. On this road, there were no mountainous rice terrace to be seen. Still wet and misty, I was disappointed with the weather, wasn’t confident the sun would shine today. Boom. Out of nowhere, the quintessential image of livestock in Vietnam, three water buffaloes casually without care crossing the road to the other side. The unison of order from big to small; old to young, is nature’s way of showing how beautiful life is in harmony.

Water Buffaloes - from old to young casually strolling in front of our bus to the other side. 

Arriving into SaPa felt like I had entered an alpine resort. Streets had plenty of hotels, hiking gear shops, and restaurants that catered from local cuisine to popular European dishes. The minibus pulled up to the main town resort. We were welcomed by ethnic women in their custom wear. They were overly excited to see buses arrive. I wondered what the fuss was about, surely, Peter and the others weren’t the first white people they had seen.

The driver instructed us to enter the resort lobby and wait for further instructions. With our belongings by our feet in the lobby/reception area, with other tourists, a local Sapa guide announced for our attention. It was just past 6:30am. We had 2 hours to freshen ourselves up in the base changing room and have breakfast on this ground level in the buffet area behind the reception. At 8:30 sharp we had to be back in the base level changing room, allocated tour guides will then take us on our journey.
Once instructions were clear, a horde of eager tourists crammed ourselves into two small elevators to the base level where hot showers were awaiting us. Tour guides were already waiting to greet their groups. Cu introduced himself to me as our Sapa guide for the next 30 hours.

Cu giving Peter an education on the ethnic
minority groups around this region.

He advised me to leave our heavy baggage here in the baggage storeroom, only to take what is necessary for an overnight stay. Cu assured our belongings will be safe and secure.

The hot shower was a dream, I could have stayed under the soothing pressure of hot water, but there were other travellers waiting in line to freshen up. Dried myself up with the provided fresh towels and got dressed in my gym gear. There were gumboots for hire, I decided not to, instead I was looking at the small collection of hiking shoes they had for sale. I should have bought a pair in Hanoi, because here it was at least 3 times the price. I chose a purple hiking pair for VND460k. Peter made note that the weather was looking drizzly, wet and grey. We both agreed that a closed-up style shoe would be best over Peter’s newly loved hiking sandals. Lucky for Peter, his sneakers (not the best hiking shoes, though it was the only one that would fit him) was on sale for VND240k.

As we were fluffing about getting ready, I overheard a few guides making comments that Mr (Peter) is frail and may be struggling to do the hike. I proceeded to speak in Vietnamese for some clarity. I asked how long the hike will take, the response, ‘6-hours’. Six hours! I asked if the hike was an easy one, the response, ‘yes, it’s easy but the path is muddy today and could be slippery’. I thought to myself, keep claim so Peter will feel claim. I went to my bag and pulled out two rolls of sports tape and bandaged Peter’s ankles and feet for added support. With deep breaths, Peter and I looked at each other for courage.

Cu our tour guide, two H'Mong ladies helping Peter, and Tom.

Our day bags on our backs and camera in my hands, we took off following Cu’s lead. We were a small group of three tourists, the rest had already sojourned with their guides. We were the last to leave. Tom, our third trek companion is a Dutchman in his 20s travelling through Asia solo. I hope he didn’t feel like we were going to slow him down. Heading down the steps towards the open Sapa Town Square, three women from the H’Mong ethnic group started to follow us. Cu explains ethnic women from the countryside come to Sapa to find extra work during the low season. Rice fields have been harvested. And with tourist booming in Sapa, many women from nearby villages hike to Sapa in hopes to find extra money through selling souvenirs or assist tourist hiking through hard treks. I had read in one of Peter’s books (purchased in Hanoi) of this occurring. And according to “customs” or governance, it is highly recommended that travellers accept these women’s assistance through mountainous treks (because it can be rough and tough) as a karmic gift, therefore you should not tip or donate money. But travellers should show reciprocal gesture by buying a small momentum that each lady has made – this is to ensure ethnic minorities don’t rely on donations, they get paid to be productive instead.

Rain, hail or shine, work must go on. Slippery and dangerous.

Cutting through the streets of Sapa, there wasn’t much beauty to see. There are a lot of construction going on. Good or bad, tourism in Sapa has explored and many major resorts and hotels are coming in to be part of the action. Yes, monstrous slick structures are taking prime locations and impeding nature’s landscape, yet, they have boosted the local economy by providing work to many locals. I sincerely hope in the long-run it is a good thing to the locals – for them to prosper and live well for generations. However, too much of a good thing can turn bad i.e. when living well is not enough, it becomes greed; or integrating western values can make one leave behind their traditions and obligations to family and community, which many of these ethnic minorities hold dear and make them who they are.

In the first hour, Tom slipped in the mud. Lucky Tom is young and fit, he got up and dusted himself off, and got on with it. I was thinking about his white shoes in the mud [laugh]. Getting out of the town and off the beaten track, it is not easy, it felt like endless steep slippery hills. My new hiking shoes couldn’t find grip in slushy mud. I now understand why these women have come along to help. Inside I hoped Peter felt confident taking his steps. I look back at him and was relieved to see two of these women on either side propping Peter up and guiding his steps. With a smile on my face, I have a feeling we will get through this alive. Around the bend and by the pig shed, the slopey hills and mountains appeared. I quickly forgot I had schlepped in mud for the last hour or so.

Around the bend, Sapa's mountains and rice terrace open up their awesomeness.

About 3 hours in we were trekking somewhere in the mountains of Lao Chai towards our destination Ta Van village. We cross many little water streams that came running down from the mountaintops. The purest and freshest waters directly from heaven (sky), before coming together and descending down to the lowlands towards Hanoi and out to the east coast. Cu’s pumps us up by announcing a rest area is just up the hill. A lovely surprise happened just before our rest, a tiny little Black Dao woman sitting on a shabby timber braiding linen yarn under a temporary bamboo sukkah (shelter). You wouldn’t believe how old she is. 92 years young ! How she climbs these hills at her age and tiny frame is beyond me. She is so little, she makes me look like a giant [laugh], I’m only 5 foot. She reminds me of my late Grandmother who past away ten years ago at 103 years old. My Grandmother had lived a strong bold life. Living boldly is the elixir of life.

92 years old - Black Dao minority.

Arriving at a pit-stop for a breather, we converged with other hiking groups that went on different paths. Cu says their paths were harder treks, I don’t believe him as ours was rough. Tom slipped earlier on, and I had slipped off some rocks and fell into a stream. Peter, however, has done pretty well not to get hurt, well that’s because he has had four helping hands. The rest was well deserved. Tom got a few “likes” from a group of young ladies. Unsure if Tom was aware of the attention, but no reaction came from him.

Off our butts, we continued to hike up. 5 hours in, Peter and I had just about enough schlepping for a lifetime. Cu kept saying our homestay village was a couple kilometres more, that we were very close. After this hardest part, it will all be downhill to our homestay. We arrived at a big open shed where we are to have our afternoon tea/lunch. This place was also a changeover of “Sherpas” so to speak. For the last 5 hours we had trekked through Sapa and Lao Chai. We were now on the border of entering Ta Van where we would be staying overnight. These three H’Mong ladies helping us through the mountains are from Lao Chai, and this was the end of their journey with us. Before we parted, Peter and I agreed that we were happy to gift these ladies with donations for their huge help with Peter. Before Peter and I could use our money in our own terms, we had over a dozen ethnic women surrounding us at our table, looking and staring into our wallets. I was quickly reminded of the exchange “etiquettes”, don’t gift with donation but buy a “souvenir”. I felt overwhelmed by the crowd. A Red Dao lady grabbed my arm and tried to persuade me to allow her to Sherpa us to our homestay. I tried to politely decline. Her incessant plea made me snap, ‘No! Please leave me alone!’ I yelled. Finally, I felt the crowd give Peter and I some space. I tried to refocus on the three H’Mong ladies. They took out souvenirs that they had made themselves. Peter was very happy to buy a few pieces as a reminder of his experience. I, however, didn’t want any souvenir as I didn’t see the value in them. When the ladies gave me their prices for their pieces, I felt disgruntled inside – the prices were outrageously high. Why could I not just give them money donation that I felt happy to give?! Peter could see me in distress. However, Peter reminds me, ‘Thu, I really needed these ladies’ help. I’m happy to pay.’ The two main ladies helping Peter received just over AUD50.00 each and the third lady received about AUD30.00 with additional from Tom (as she was Tom’s Sherpa).

Endless beauty of Vietnam's North West Highland Sapa,
much cooler climate than its East Coast. 

The crowd of Ethnic women soon dissolved to the background and we started eating our lunch. Looking up I saw the table in front of me were the same European couples we met yesterday and earlier today on the bus ride. They looked just as exhausted and jaded as Peter and I. They verbalised that the tour company they booked through gave them no impression as to how hard this hike would be. If they had known, they never would have booked. They were beyond exhaustion and plan to cancel the rest of the tour and return to Sapa town and be done with the ordeal. I put my 2 cents in, saying that these tour companies assume all travellers/tourists are fit and up for adventures, that they don’t consider the travellers’ individual requirements. This is an equivalent to dodgy business dealings - 'no problem, no worries,' just as long as they get your business, the rest is details for you to deal with. 

When Cu came to us to continue on, I told him best he organise a taxi or motorbikes to take Peter and I straight to our homestay. Cu agreed. And Tom and Cu continued on hiking the rest of the way.

Arriving at our homestay, we were relieved to finally stop. Peter had held himself together so well to this point, he couldn’t hide his back pain any longer, he had to lay down. We were to sleep upstairs, but there was no way Peter could climb these narrow steep stairs, even I was having trouble. We waited for Tom and Cu to arrive. I mentioned to Cu that Peter cannot go up and down the stairs, hoping there was an alternative option the family could make accommodation for Peter on the ground floor. They happily obliged and gave Peter one of their bedrooms. Peter collapsed on the bed and missed dinner.

The daughter-in-law preparing pork nem for our dinner.

In Vietnam, it is customary for the bride to leave her family and go live with her husband’s parents until they make enough money to live out on their own. At this homestay, the daughter-in-law does most of the chores – the washing, cleaning and preparing dinner etc. Her husband does labour work to bring home the bacon. They have a baby son, who is almost always attached to his grandmother’s back. Here, grandparents (mainly grandmothers) take on the role of looking after their grandchildren whilst the young parents concern themselves with daily operations that keeps the whole family’s eco-system moving. This young couple is the next generation to work hard and pay their dues. The grandparents still work where they are strong and able, however, have more leisure time to spend with their grandchildren.

Generally, when travellers like us come to stay at a homestay, the family organises dinner for us in the main room of the house, whilst they eat in the kitchen/side room. There was only three of us this stay, so it was delightful to share dinner with the family. The spread was generous with seasonal vegetables like baby bamboo shoots and cabbage, chicken stir-fry, pork nem (spring rolls), and fish stew. All to be eaten with homegrown white fluffy rice. The special treat was homemade rice wine. Tom and Cu enjoyed their rice wine smoothly. I bowled out after the second round.

Dinner - Tom, Cu and our homestay family. 

No sign of Peter joining us. Tom and I called it a night and went upstairs to our communal sleep area. Our small talk eventually gave way to snoring.

To continue reading, please click on North Vietnam - SaPa Day 5
Or you can start from the beginning by clicking North Vietnam - Hanoi Day 1 

Thank you for you reading support !